MUpower installation info & Video

[Administrator]

The MUpower dc adapter is designed for Musitronics Mutron III pedals only. This is not compatible with Haz Labs Mutron III+ or later era ARP Produced Mutron III pedals. HazLabs units run on 24VDC and the Later ARP Mu-pedals are AC powered.

Current consumption is less than 50mA, Power requirement is 9VDC, CENTER NEGATIVE.
It is advised to directly power this pedal on a single adapter or single port directly on a multi-tapped supply ie:Strymon, Cioks, Voodoo labs.
Mupower requires direct power and ground to operate ideally.  Note some brands of 2.1mm splitter y-cables lift ground on one side, so if your using daisy chains and or y-splitters this may potentially be the source of no-operation.


Step-by-step Installation

Tools Required:
• #2 Phillips screwdriver
• #1 Phillips screwdriver, or larger jewelers
• Wire-stripper with 22ga size
• Small diagonal cutters

Difficulty level: EASY

Remove the screws front, back, top, note the 2 screws on the rear near the old power jack stay.
With all screws removed, you can separate the chassis, if your Mutron III still has its battery door feed that thru the lower chassis half.

Take the diagonal cutters, and snip the RED,WHITE & BLACK wires on the old power jack.
Strip roughly 1/8" of jacketing back, twist each stripped wire tightly so there are no splinters that may make contact where it shouldnt.

Insert wires into terminal block as follows
RED wire to +9
BLACK wire to -9
WHITE wire to ground

mount the MUpower with the supplied screws, this can be a little tricky, its best to pop both screws in, slip the cover piece over and while holding the screw heads in place the dc-adapter board over, and quickly get the screwdriver on there and tighten up.

reassemble the pedal.
Its advised remove batteries when powering with DC.


FOR BATTERY OPERATION - please contact support@retrolinear.com

Some Mutron III tips for ideal operation:
• Clean pots, switches with CRC 2-26 cleaner/lube, use a light amount - do not overspray
• Make sure the Rotary switch and control pots are tightly mounted to the chassis (1/2" SOCKET)
• Make sure the output/input jacks are also tight, there should be a lockwasher inside, flat on the outside.
• All missing hardware should be replaced, especially the large #8 rear screw which supports the PCB.